Montag, 27. April 2009

Cusco, Arequipa, Lima... and the incredible journey to Machu Picchu
























































Hola from Lima!

First of all: people are right- the capital of Peru really is a shithole... at least at this time of year.- The whole city is covered in a cloud of mist. You can´t see a thing! After 8 weeks of traveling I have finally made it to the ocean and now this! Oh well, you can't in 'em all... I'll just leave the city again tomorrow and that's that. Just stopped here anyway, because it would have been too far to go all the way up north in one day.

Now to more exciting stories!

Things in Cusco got pretty crazy- I left of telling you, that I would meet up with the boys; that was the second day in Cusco. I went to the bar to meet them, when somebody screamed my name. And there were my girls from Salta, who I didn't even know were in Peru, let alone Cusco!! After that of course we got wasted worse than ever before- in Cusco you get one free drink, whenever you enter a club as a big group, so we ended up going to I think six different clubs, got totally drunk and didn't pay a single Sole!
Well, the next day was basically wound-licking and making big plans for going to Machu Picchu the next day. The train there and back costs over 140 US-Dollars, although it's just a two hour trip, so a total rip off for tourist! We decided, WE don't need the train...
We left at ten in the morning for St. Maria, a small pueblo in the middle of the Sacred Valley. The trip there already took us almost 6, instead of 4 hours... arriving in St. Maria we discovered, that the climate there was like in the jungle- hot and humid (mosquitoes!!). Good thing, I brought my big heavy backpack with sleepingbag and warm clothes...
Next, we had to hire a collectivo (taxi for many people together) to St. Theresa, as there was no bus. We arrived there another 2 hours later, at about 6:30 p.m. After each eating a family-sized pizza, we tried taking a taxi to "the powerplant", where the traintracks to Agua Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo) start. The problem was, that there had been a landslide on the road, and the taxi couldn't pass. By now it was dark and looked like rain, and the locals warned us about snakes and more landslides. Apart from those dangers, we only had two flashlights for five people, and the drop next to the path was pretty steep...
We started walking, anyway (we had rum and coca leaves- what could go wrong?!) and about half an hour later, we actually made it to the train tracks. That's when it started raining.
We found shelter next to an empty building along the tracks, but it kept on raining even harder. I walked around the corner of the building, as the wind was coming from infront and found a huge, dry tent!! What luck?!
So now we had a decent shelter and waited, until the rain had almost stopped. By now it was about 11:30 p.m., still dark, still two flashlights and now wet and slippery train tracks.
We continued our journey, pausing only for essential things (rum), balancing on the tacks over bridges that crossed rivers about 100 feet deep (did I mention, the tracks were wet and we only had two flashlights?!). Good thing we had rum, otherwise, we might have been scared.
After about another two hours of walking, we arrived safely in Agua Calientes. It was about 2 a.m. by know and we decided, that it was too late and wet to put up a tent. Since we didn't have anymore water, Will and I walked into town and bought very expensive water (and beer) at the only disco in town, which took us another hour. Coming back to the campground where the others were waiting we discovered, that they had made a new friend: A somewhat mad sheep which kept trying to rub it's head on us, no matter how many times we tried chasing it away! We tied it up, in order to have at least 10 minutes of peace, before it was time to start climbing up the over 1000 steps to Machu Picchu. Of course, we untied it again when we left. The liberated sheep came charging after Pim, knocking him staight off his feet! Laughing so hard, we could barely walk anymore, we continued our journey. We yelled at the sheep and tried chasing it away again, but it actually followed us ALL THE WAY up to the Inka-site!!! André said, it was to give me strenghth for the last part of the way (by now, Freddie was carrying my backpack), and he was probably right. We made it up to Machu Picchu at presisely 4:50 a.m. and were the first ones there that day!
At six we were admitted in and got straight in line for Waynapicchu, another mountain overlooking Machu Picchu, on which only 400 people a day are allowed to climb. Great. More stairs. But getting to the top (it must have been around 8 a.m. by now) it was worth it- the clouds passed and gave way to amazing views of the Inka-site (pictures soon on facebook!!).
Climbing back down was actually more stumbeling, as by then we were going on 26 hours without sleep (and we didn't have anymore water, either). We looked around Machu Picchu for about another hour, and left the site at about 11 a.m. BY BUS!!!
After a quick snack in Aguas Calientes we got on the train to Ollantaytambo (which is only 33 dollars compared to the 77 to Cusco), and from there we squeezed into a cab to Cusco, in which we slept all the way (even Will, who was sitting in the trunk!), much to the amazement of the driver.
Back in civilization we treated ourselves to a huge (and expensive!) dinner, showered and went to bed for a 14-hour sleep!
The next day was the last day in Cusco, which was spent reading, eating and relaxin in the sun!

Then our ways parted.- Will, Freddie and Pim went for a motorbike tour in the mountains, André headed for the coast for some sandboarding, and I left for Arequipa by myself, in order to trek the Colca Canyon.
Arriving in Arequipa was rather a dissapointment after beautiful Cusco, but it was ok.

I walked the canyon myself, without a guide (and even without a tourist ticket, thanks to my talents as an actress- "I must have forgotten it in my big backpack, but I did buy one, honestly!"), having received instructions from a hostal-owner in Cabanaconde. It was a three day, two night trek down the canyon, to the "oasis" and back up again, about 3500 feet (the deepest canyon in Peru, I think, even in South America.)
After the hike back up I decided, that I had done my share of trekking for this country, and that it´s time to head up north to a beach!!!

Well, and here I am in Lima, resting for one night after a 15 hour bus journey.
Tomorrow it will be another 18 hours on the bus (I´m getting an expensive, comfortable one, though!!), and then I will be in Mancora, a beautiful beach (according to the locals) near the Ecuadorian boarder!

I will keep you posted, but don't be disappointed, if you don't hear from me the next couple of days- I'll be soaking up some sun!!!

Love you, thank you for your emails and hasta luego!!!

Donnerstag, 16. April 2009

Lago Titicaca
























































Hello again, this time from Cusco, Peru!
I´ve spent the last week or so (loosing track of time here!) at Lago Titicaca, and it´s been very very beautiful!
I took a bus from La Paz to Copacabana, which is right by the lake, and spent the night there. The next morning, it was the Friday before easter (Karfreitag, I don´t know, what it´s called in English!), I climbed the sacred hill above the town with an incredible amount of local people- in fact, I was the only tourist! Up on top I lit a candle for my grandmother, who died 2 weeks ago, and watched the people saying their prayers and having little miniature objects blessed, because they hope to obtain whatever is blessed up there in the future. Then I took a boat to the Isla del Sol in the middle of the lake. A very beautiful, very quiet place, where apparently the Inkas built there first temples and worshipped the sun, before moving on to Peru. There I met Pim, a very nice guy from Holland, and after 2 days we discovered, that we have the same friends- he was waiting for Will and Freddy to return from the trance festival in La Paz and I was waiting for Andre, and we had all been staying in the same hostel there!! It really is a small world...
So Pim and I spent 3 days on the island, hiking, looking at the archeological sites and actually SWIMMING in the freezing cold lake!! On the fourth day we returned to Copacobana, as there was no internet on the island, and we expected the boys to be there by now. And sure enough, an hour after getting there we met them on the street! We spend an evening "celebrating our reunion" , just to split up again the next day. The boys wanted to see the island too, and Pim and I left Bolivia for Puno, Peru. There we looked at the "floatin islands" and finally had our laundry washed, and I had my first Alpaka steak, which was actually pretty good!
Then we took an ENDLESS bustrip to Cusco, where we arrived yesterday after midnight. Our hostel is an old farmhouse, way up on a hill overlooking the town.- Very nice, but a lot more expensive than Bolivia! We were starving, so we went out to eat and drink at a bar, which is why the day today didn´t start until 1pm! After breakfast we -again by chance- met Andre Will and Freddy out on the street! Now I´ve spend pretty much the whole afternoon in an internet cafe and am getting really annoyed!! I´m going off now to meet the boys and -probably- to have my first taste of guinea pig! Next up is Macchu Pichu, probably tomorrow or the day after that! It is still freezing cold in the night, but by now I´ve stocked up on alpacka sweaters, socks, hats, etc., so I´m alright! I´m afraid, I´ll have to stop uploading fotos on this blog, it takes for f**king ever!!! I´ve uploaded most of the pictures on facebook, which is much faster, so please take a look there (mom and dad, I´m sure, Juli will help you there!!).
Ok you all, I hope you´re still enjoying spring time and are all healthy and happy :-)
Love you, miss you and think of you whenever the breathtaking scenery gives me a chance!!!

Mittwoch, 8. April 2009

Bolivia- Tupiza, Salar de Uyuni, La Paz










































































































Heya all...
So, right now I´m still in La Paz- a completely crazy city!! There seem to be no traffic rules, it´s incredibly crowded and CHEAP!! We´ve been living like kings here- going to the best restaurants in town, shopping like crazy (where the hell am I going to put all this stuff?!) and doing things like riding motorbikes through "Valle de la Luna"! I´ll never get used to prices in Germany again!!!
At the moment we´re a group of nine people- One English guy, five Israelis and Andre and me with one other German. It´s fun doing things together, but it´s also annoying, trying to organize times and places where everybody wants to go... Andre and some of the others will go to a trance festival close to La Paz this weekend, but I´m already so cold, that I said I don´t want to spend 3 nights in a tent!! So tomorrow I will probably be leaving for Lake Titicaca and stay there on the "Isla del Sol" until Andre arrives... I need some time for myself and to relax!! I hope it won´t be too crowded, though, because this weekend is easter weekend, which is a really really big thing here in S-America.
The trip through the Salar de Uyuni was amazing- we spend four days and three nights there. In the day we drove around in a jeep, looking at absolutely stunning scenery, with colourful rock formations, different coloured lakes with FLAMINGOES (yes, there are flamingoes in Bolivia!) and hot springs, and at night we got completely drunk and played card games with our fellow travelers, who were -fortunately enough- really cool people. I hope I can upload the pictures, I´ll try later!
Tupiza was very nice as well- it looks like an old western town, and the movie "Butch Cassidy and Sundance Kid" was filmed there! When Andre and I met there last monday night, of course we had to celebrate the "reunion" with a couple of beers, which is probably the reason, why we didn´t feel very well the next day... we managed to go horseback riding though, which was really amazing, with a real "wild west feeling"! My horse was the fastest, but fucking crazy, so I wasn´t able to take a lot of pictures, because I kept dropping my camera... so that was Tuesday in Tupiza, and on Wednesday morning we already left for the Salar.
Well, that´s about all there is to report at the moment. I think I´ve finally gotten used to the altitude, but I´m still addicted to coca mate ;-) When I get back to Europe, I´m going to start a legalization campagne- we went to the coca museum yesterday, and the stuff is really amazing. Not only, that it works better than coffee, but it also cures the problems that come with high altitude and makes you more resistant to the cold, and it even has more vitamins than pretty much all other plants!! Ok, so much for my "ode to the coca leaves", I´m going to try uploading pictures now, and then I have to take some fotos of La Paz- it´s really a fucking amazing city!!

I hear, the weather in Germany is finally starting to feel like spring, I´m happy for you!! Greetings to Stuttgart, Berlin, and the sun over Germany... hasta luego!